In the first four days of my recent trip to the Norwegian fjords I toured two lighthouses (one is now a highly coveted hotel room, the other is a museum), daringly navigated the serpentine mountain road Trollstigen, observed the beauty of Geirangerfjord, kayaked through the Art Nouveau city of Ålesund, saw the hotel that served as the haunting set of Ex Machina and visited a handful of other properties—one of which joins a short list of my favorite hotels around the world. But day five proved th...