When I want to conjure my safari in Kenya, it is the night sounds I remember. Yes, we saw five lions cubs scrambling over each other on the Mara plains, elephants wading through the rich green grasses and shimmering blue water of the Amboseli marsh, hundreds of flamingos silhouetted in the afternoon light, and even rhinos from a helicopter as we traversed the colorful hills of Laikipia. But it was waking up in my tent at Finch Hattons just before dawn to the sound bath of dozens of southern mask...