When I set off for Ireland, I hadn’t intended to arrive during a watershed moment in the country’s history. And yet, as I made my way through the Georgian townhouse-lined avenues and cobblestoned alleys of Dublin, I quickly realized that I was witnessing first-hand a city undergoing monumental change.
Walking from Parnell Square, one of Dublin’s prettiest residential areas, to the Creative Quarter, I passed posters urging “Vote Yes”—and others, sometimes in front of churches, that implored “Vot...